This summer, the world was (and is) closed down thanks to Corona. Therefore we didn’t plan for any vacation, but suddenly Norway opened up for Denmark. We figured that the natural beauty and remoteness of Norway seems perfect for these crazy times! Plus, we had no idea how quickly the world could go back into lockdown, so we decided to pack our tiny pink car and drive north!
We chose Lofoten that lies above the Arctic Circle in Norway, which made for quite a drive 🙂 We departed from Copenhagen and took the night cruise to Oslo. From there, we took highway E6 straight to Lofoten. The moment we hit the Arctic Circle, the sun never truly set, and the white nights began.
On our way back, we decided to take the so-called “Atlantic Road” along the west coast and get to Copenhagen via Sweden. It is a little slower than the E6, but the views were amazing. On that road, you will take a lot of ferries, so check out the last departure time beforehand; unless you want to be stuck on a small island without internet like us 🙂
How to get there
There are a couple of ways to get to Lofoten.
You can fly there. There are two airports located on Lofoten: Leknes and Svolvær.
The other option is to drive like us. From Bodø, you can either drive all the way around, which takes quite a while, or take a ferry across. The question now is which ferry 🙂
- The one from Bodø to Moskenes takes roughly 4 hours. It is the longest and most expensive ferry ride and the roughest should it get stormy.
- The next crossing is Skutvik – Svolvær (operating only during the summer), the cheapest ferry. The only problem with it was that it doesn’t depart very often. When we wanted to go, there were only two departures during the day. It was a miracle we made it on our way back; our car was the last that managed to squeeze in:)
- Bognes – Lødingen: This ferry has the fastest crossing time-wise, at just over an hour. With 20+ departures per day during summer, it can often be a good choice if you are unsure when you will arrive and don’t want to make a reservation for Moskenes. We took this one on the way to Lofoten, and it was perfect. We didn’t wait that long to board, and it was not boring as it is a short trip.
To know more about pricing, and availability check out this website.
We still have no idea how much we paid for the ferries, as you no longer buy tickets onboard. Instead, they scan your license plate, and at some point, you will get the bill 🙂
There is no direct bus or train connection to Lofoten from the south. Both arrive in Bodø, where typically you will take the ferry to Moskenes. Alternatively, if coming from the north (Tromsø) or east (Sweden), you can make a bus connection in Narvik, and then you will travel all the way to the end of the road at Å in Lofoten.
Should I rent a car?
The answer is simple, yes. If you’re a photographer or want to get off the beaten path, you need a car. Public transport works okay, but good luck trying to get anywhere that’s not directly on E10. Our friends didn’t have a car, and it was such a headache to find campsites along the road so they wouldn’t have to walk too much. It restricted our movement a lot and really limited what we were able to do and see.
Remember to reserve a car ahead of time for the summer season, as it is quite a popular service. If you rent in Bodø, you have to add ~1000NOK for a ferry.
But if taking a bus is still something you would like to do, then buy Travel Pass Nordland, as it provides 7 days of travel on public transportation for around €99. All buses, express boats (hurtigbåt), and ferries are included in the cost of Travel Pass Nordland, except for two ferry routes: Bognes–Lødingen, and Bodø–Moskenes/Værøy/Røst.
Check out this website for more info regarding busses.
Prepare for all kinds of weather on Lofoten. It changes every 10 minutes, one minute it is raining, the next the sun is shining. Truly amazing. When we were hiking we had to put and take off rain gear all the time! The two pictures have been taken with a couple of hours in between. Huge difference, right?