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Breathtaking Autumn in Poland: Hiking Through Ojców National Park

Ojców National Park

Last weekend, I had the chance to visit Poland, and with just one free day, we were determined to make the most of it. Unfortunately, the forecast showed rain wherever we checked. But as the saying goes, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing choices.” So, we geared up in our rain jackets and set out for Ojców National Park, the smallest national park in Poland. I read online that it’s one of the best spots to visit during autumn—and wow, they weren’t wrong. The park was absolutely breathtaking, especially when standing among the trees with leaves gently falling all around – magical.

Ojców National Park

Ojców National Park is located about 20 km north of Kraków, nestled in the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland. It’s a stunning mix of architecture, rock formations, caves, castles, and the picturesque Prądnik Valley. One of the park’s unique charms is its thriving bat population, with 17 out of Poland’s 25 bat species calling it home.

The route

While planning the trip, I stumbled upon a hiking loop that promised a relaxing experience, and it did not disappoint! The trail took us about four hours to complete at an easygoing pace. The terrain wasn’t too difficult—just a few stairs up the hills, but nothing too intense. The rain did add an extra challenge, making the rocks, already smooth from years of visitors, a bit slippery. Thankfully, most of the tricky spots had railings to hold onto for safety.

One of the nice things about this route is its flexibility. If you’re traveling with a stroller or want to take it a bit easier, you can skip certain parts and still enjoy the park’s beauty, as the path through the valley is an asphalt road.

We left the car at the parking lot in Czajowice, which cost 10 PLN for the day. I’d recommend this spot only if you’re not traveling with a stroller, as the path from the lot takes you through a forest and includes a small decline with steps.

From the parking lot, it’s just a short ten-minute walk along the blue trail, and then a left turn onto the black trail at the crossroads to reach the first highlight of our hike — Łokietek Cave.

Łokietek’s Cave

Łokietek’s Cave or Grotto of Łokietek, once also known as the Royal Cave, is the longest one in Ojców National Park. A narrow, 20-meter-long rock crevice leads you into its fascinating interior. According to local legend, King Władysław the Elbow-high (also known as Ladislaus the Short) took refuge here while fleeing from the soldiers of Czech King Wenceslaus II. His life was supposedly saved by a spider that spun a web across the cave entrance, making his pursuers believe it was undisturbed. It’s said that Łokietek spent six weeks hiding in the cave, and hence, its chambers are named accordingly—the Knight’s Hall, the Kitchen, and the largest room, the Bedroom. The total length of the cave’s corridors is about 270 meters.

Łokietek’s Cave is open daily from mid-April to mid-November, with the exception of November 1. The opening hours vary throughout the season:

  • April to August: 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM
  • September: 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM
  • October: 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM
  • November: 9:00 AM to 3:00 PM

Note that the listed closing times are the last entry times, and entries are organized every 30 minutes.

I visited Łokietek’s Cave as a kid, and the one thing that really stuck with me was being glad I was small enough not to have to duck down! This time around, we had plans to revisit the cave, but unfortunately, we ran out of time and decided to skip it. It’s still on my list for a future trip, though, so I will let you know if my memory serves me right next time 🙂

After leaving Łokietek’s Cave, continue along the blue trail, heading toward the Krakow Gate (Brama Krakowska) by passing through the Narrow Rocks Gorge (Ciasne Skałki). This part of the hike is a pleasant downhill walk through the forest, with beautiful rock formations lining the path. And don’t worry about climbing back up—this hiking loop takes a different route for the return journey, so you won’t need to retrace your steps back up the hill.

Ojców National Park
Ojców National Park

Krakow Gate

The Krakow Gate (Brama Krakowska) is one of the most iconic rock formations in Ojców National Park. It gets its name from an old trade route that once connected Krakow to Silesia, passing right through this valley.

There’s also an intriguing legend tied to it—the story goes that the distance between the pillars of the Krakow Gate is slowly shrinking each year. When they finally touch, it’s said that the world will come to an end. To prevent this, people passing through often place sticks between the pillars, hoping to stop them from “moving” closer together.

Krakow Gate

Passing Krakow Gate, you will find Spring of Love on the right and the Cow Cave on the left.

Cow Cave

The name of the cave likely comes from its past use as a shelter for cows and sheep that grazed on the nearby pastures. Though the cave itself isn’t very large, it provides just enough space to offer a bit of shelter from the elements.

Spring of Love

This famous spring is called the Spring of Love (Źródełko Miłości). If you look closely, you can spot a heart shape under the water, adding to its romantic allure. According to legend, any couple who drinks from the spring together will be united in undying love forever!

However, be warned—not all legends lead to happy endings. Despite the romantic tale, the water is not safe for consumption, and several signs around the spring caution tourists about it. Drinking from the spring might leave you and your partner experiencing a different kind of “bonding”—the shared charm of dealing with food poisoning together! So, enjoy the view, but skip the sip!

Spring of Love

At this point in the hike, you can decide whether you’re feeling adventurous and ready for some stunning views of the valley, or if you’d prefer a more relaxed walk to the castle. Standing by the Spring of Love, with the river in front of you, turning left will lead you along a pleasant, paved road straight to the castle.

But, if you’re up for a little more adventure, turn right and walk past the Spring of Love, continuing along the asphalt path beside the river until you reach the start of the green trail. This route involves a bit of an uphill hike, but the breathtaking views of the Prądnik Valley will make every step worth it. Along the way, there are several scenic vistas, with the ultimate highlight being the view of the Glove Rock (Rękawica) next to the entrance to Dark Cave (Jaskinia Ciemna).

views of the Prądnik Valley
views of the Prądnik Valley
views of the Prądnik Valley

Glove Rock

The name “Glove Rock” (Rękawica) is tied to a local legend. During one of the Tatar invasions, the nearby population sought refuge in the Dark Cave, located close to the rock. As the Tatars searched the valley for people, God is said to have placed His hand over the entrance to the cave, protecting the villagers from death or enslavement. This divine intervention gave rise to the rock’s name, as it is said to resemble a hand or glove.

If you’re not up for the uphill hike, don’t worry—you can still enjoy the sight of Glove Rock from the bottom of the valley.

Glove Rock (Rękawica)

Dark Cave

Dark Cave (Jaskinia Ciemna) is the second cave open to visitors in Ojców National Park. The cave features a massive chamber, the largest in the entire Krakow-Częstochowa Upland, measuring 80 meters long, 20 meters wide, and 10 meters high. This impressive space narrows into a tunnel at its end. Neanderthals once settled here, and archaeologists continue to find tools left behind by them. In fact, in 2018, the cave yielded the oldest known human remains in Poland—a Neanderthal child’s hand bones, dating back approximately 115,000 years!

Dark Cave can only be explored with a guide, and since it’s unlit, visitors are given candles to light their way, adding to the adventure. Keep in mind that the cave is open from mid-April to mid-September, as the bats hibernate there afterward and require peace and quiet. Since we visited in mid-October, we unfortunately had to skip this experience—but it’s definitely on the list for next time!

Deotyma’s Needle

After the cave, the trail gently descends to the bottom of the Prądnik Valley, turns right, and passes Deotyma’s Needle (Igła Deotymy), a striking rock formation. It is a slender rock needle standing alone. The name was given in honor of Jadwiga Łuszczewska, a poet under the pseudonym Deotyma who sought inspiration in nature and probably lived in a villa right next to Needle.

Deotyma's Needle

From there, it’s a peaceful 30-minute walk to reach Ojców Castle. Along the way, you’ll pass a small lake and a few local restaurants known for serving fresh trout straight from the lake. If you have some extra time, it’s definitely worth stopping for a bite—I’ve heard the trout is absolutely delicious! Unfortunately, we had to skip it, as we were pressed for time and had a plane to catch. Hopefully, next time!

lake with the trout

Ojców Castle

You can access the path to Ojców Castle from the parking lot side, though we took a longer route by following the street around it before finally finding the entrance.
Ojców Castle
Ojców Castle, also called Kazimierz Castle, like the nearby Pieskowa Skała Castle, was originally built in the 14th century. However, its turbulent history has left it in ruins. Today, only a picturesque ruin remains, consisting of the remnants of its defensive walls and residential buildings, an entrance gate, a lowered octagonal tower, and a well, now 20 meters deep and covered with a grate.

According to legend, the name “Ojców” (originally “Ociec”) was given by King Kazimierz the Great in honor of his father, Władysław Łokietek, who once hid in a nearby cave during his struggle for the throne of Kraków. The town’s name, Ojców, is said to have evolved from this tribute, recognizing the support Władysław received from locals who helped him survive by bringing him food while he hid.

In 1829, during the Russian occupation, the castle was sold, and its new owner dismantled much of the structure, leaving only the entrance gate, the octagonal tower, and parts of the defensive walls. Several attempts were made throughout the 19th century to renovate or even rebuild the castle. In 1913, a new owner began conservation efforts, including a partial renovation of the tower, helping preserve the ruins we see today.

Ojców Castle
Ojców Castle
Ojców Castle
Ojców Castle

After you’re done exploring Ojców Castle, it’s time to head back to the car. Follow the black trail, which takes you past the lakes where you can spot trout. Just above the lakes is Jonaszówka Rock, offering a fantastic viewpoint. From there, it’s about a 30-minute hike back to Łokietek’s Cave. The trail has a gentle incline, but it’s not too challenging, making for a pleasant return walk to wrap up your adventure.

Jonaszówka Rock

Jonaszówka Rock (Skałka Jonaszówka) is an excellent viewpoint in Ojców, offering stunning views of the valley below and the hill crowned by Ojców Castle. The final stretch of the climb can be a bit tricky, especially when the limestone rocks are wet and slippery, but thankfully a handrail has been installed, making it much easier and safer to navigate.

Jonaszówka Rock

Summary of the route

From the parking lot, start by following the blue trail. If you’d like to visit Łokietek’s Cave, turn left onto the black trail. Afterward, continue on the blue trail, which will lead you to Krakow Gate, Cow Cave, and the Spring of Love. At this point, you can either turn left to head straight to Ojców Castle or turn right to follow the river until you reach the green trail.

If you choose the green trail, hike up Okopy Mountain for spectacular views, and on the descent, don’t miss Glove Rock and Dark Cave. From there, follow the trail to the right, which will lead you directly to Ojców Castle.

On the way back, take the black trail, passing the trout-filled lakes and Jonaszówka Rock before circling back to Łokietek’s Cave. It’s a perfect loop for seeing the park’s highlights, especially in autumn!

 

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