Lübeck was perhaps the biggest surprise of our trip. We chose it almost on impulse—it was the largest city in the area we were exploring, and we were curious to see what it was like. We didn’t know much about it beforehand. Only later did we learn that the city’s Old Town has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. What a discovery!
We quickly realized Lübeck deserved more time than we had allowed. Unfortunately, our stay was short—just one afternoon and the following morning—and much of it was spent weaving between rain showers. Still, the city made a lasting impression.
On a more personal note, after sharing some photos with my family, I found out that my grandfather’s brother once lived in Lübeck. That coincidence made the visit feel even more special.
Before I share what we enjoyed most, here’s a little of Lübeck’s history.
History
Founded in the 12th century, Lübeck rose to become the capital—and often referred to as the Queen City—of the Hanseatic League, a powerful alliance of merchant cities that controlled trade in the Baltic and North Seas. The city flourished until the 16th century as the leading commercial hub of northern Europe and continues to play a role in maritime commerce today, especially with the Nordic countries.
Although Lübeck suffered significant damage during World War II—around 20 percent of the city was destroyed—many historic buildings survived or were reconstructed. Its Old Town retains much of its medieval character, with 15th- and 16th-century patrician houses, churches, salt warehouses, and landmarks such as the famous Holstentor gate.
What to Do in Lübeck
As visitors with few expectations, we were struck by how much there was to see and do in the city. Lübeck’s Altstadt (Old Town) is particularly memorable, with its beautifully preserved gabled houses, narrow cobbled streets, and sense of history that transports you back to the days of the Hanseatic League.
Nicknamed the City of the Seven Spires because of its churches, Lübeck is also renowned for something much sweeter: marzipan.
Lübeck Altstadt
The Altstadt, or Old Town, is Lübeck’s UNESCO World Heritage heart. It sits on an island surrounded by the River Trave. Wandering its streets is a highlight of any visit, with pastel-colored houses and winding lanes leading to hidden corners.
Lübeck’s Courtyards
One of Lübeck’s charms is its many hidden courtyards. Nearly 90 of them are tucked away behind houses and passageways. Some are private, but many are open and accessible, and discovering them feels like stumbling into little secret gardens. They’re peaceful corners that look beautiful and charming.
Holstentor
The Holstentor, built in 1464, marks the western entrance to the Old Town and is one of Lübeck’s most recognizable symbols. With its twin towers and arched passageway, it is one of only two remaining city gates (the other being the Burgtor to the north).
Inside, the Holstentor Museum tells the story of Lübeck’s history. We didn’t visit the museum this time, but the structure itself is impressive enough to warrant a stop.
Salzspeicher
Just a short walk from the Holstentor are the Salzspeicher—the salt warehouses. Built between 1579 and 1745 in a Renaissance style, these brick buildings were once used to store the “white gold” that helped make Lübeck rich.
European Hansemuseum
For those wanting to dive deeper into Lübeck’s Hanseatic past, the European Hansemuseum provides an interactive experience covering the League’s rise, influence, and daily life. We unfortunately didn’t have time to visit, but it is widely recommended and on our list for a future trip.
Burgtor
The Burgtor, or Castle Gate, located at the northern end of the Old Town, is Lübeck’s oldest surviving city gate. Once part of a network of four gates, it is now, along with the Holstentor, one of the last reminders of the city’s medieval fortifications.
Heiligen-Geist-Hospital
The Heiligen-Geist-Hospital, built in 1286, is one of the oldest hospitals in Europe. It was established as a charitable foundation by wealthy merchants and city councillors, who intended it as a place for the poor, sick, and elderly.
Visitors can still explore parts of the hospital today, free of charge, from Tuesday to Sunday. Inside, you can see one of the tiny living quarters that remained in use until the 1970s. At Christmas, the hospital transforms into a beautiful setting for an arts and crafts market.
St. Peter’s Church
St. Peter’s is no longer an active church—it was damaged during World War II and has since been restored as an exhibition and events space. Its real highlight is the tower, which offers sweeping views of Lübeck.
Normally, a lift takes you up, but when we visited, it was closed for renovations. That meant climbing the stairs by foot—quite a challenge, especially being pregnant! After several breaks, we made it to the top, and the views over the Old Town and its seven spires were worth every step.
St. Mary’s Church
Marienkirche, built between 1250 and 1350, stands proudly at the highest point of the Old Town. It is the third-largest church in Germany and the first major Brick Gothic church, influencing countless other buildings across northern Europe. Its interior is vast and impressive, with a soaring vaulted ceiling reaching 40 meters—the tallest brick vault in the world.
Two details in particular make Marienkirche unforgettable:
- Danse Macabre stained glass: Installed in the 1950s to replace windows destroyed during WWII, these depict dancing skeletons and corpses—a striking departure from traditional biblical themes, inspired by a medieval mural lost during the war.
- The Broken Bells: During a 1942 air raid, two bells fell from one of the towers and shattered on the floor. They remain there today, left untouched as a memorial to the destruction of war.
The Devil’s Stone
Just outside St. Mary’s stands a small bronze statue of the devil, perched on a large stone slab. According to legend, when construction began on the church, the devil thought it was going to be a wine bar and happily lent a hand. When he realized it was a church, he grew furious and tried to destroy it with a massive stone. To calm him down, the workers promised to build him a tavern nearby, which pacified him.
Today, the stone still sits outside the church, with claw marks said to be the devil’s. In 1999, a bronze statue of the devil was added, smiling mischievously at visitors. Appropriately, the promised tavern—the Ratskeller—was built across the street.
Rathaus
Lübeck’s Rathaus, or town hall, is one of the largest medieval examples in Germany. Construction began in 1230 and continued for centuries, resulting in a fascinating mix of architectural styles. Tours of the interior are offered (in German), we chose to admire the exterior, which is impressive in its own right.
Schiffergesellschaft
If you plan to eat in Lübeck, this is a must. Once the meeting hall for the city’s seamen’s guild, it became a restaurant in 1868. Inside, wooden beams and model ships hanging from the ceiling give the space a maritime atmosphere.
The food was excellent, and the marzipan ice cream was unforgettable—though to be fair, almost anything with marzipan is wonderful. This is a popular spot, so reservations are recommended, though we were lucky to find a table by arriving just before the dinner rush.
Niederegger
No visit to Lübeck is complete without marzipan, and Niederegger is the name most closely associated with it. This family-run business has been producing marzipan since 1806 and is considered the best in the world. The shop also hosts a small museum. Unfortunately, the store had already closed by the time we arrived, so it remains on our list for next time.
Summary
Our visit to Lübeck was brief, but it left a lasting impression. The combination of history, architecture, and charming streets, all framed by its Hanseatic heritage, makes it a city worth far more than a short stopover.
We left knowing that we had only scratched the surface. Happily, Lübeck is close enough to Copenhagen to make a return easy, and we’ve since learned that its Christmas markets are famous. I am sure this won’t be our last time in the city.
